Savannah has an intrinsic charm to her. There is an underlying ghostliness to the city that gives birth to artistic expression. It’s difficult to put a finger on what exactly it is; maybe it’s the moss dripping from the trees making it appear like the trees are weeping; maybe it’s the cobblestone streets that feels so much like Paris that I was searching about for the Metro; or maybe it’s the rich history that waits patiently for someone to properly capture its opaque beauty—nonetheless, Savannah is a gem.Adi and I are currently traveling the coastal south on a work trip (she with her BioRez work and I with a couple of speaking engagements) and we decided to divert from our intended path and make Savannah an unexpected stop. When we travel, we do so fluidly and are open to improvisational changes. We have found that when we don’t over plan trips, we open ourselves up to magic we could have never planned. When the unexpected happens, we pivot very quickly. Savannah became our muse in an unanticipated way after friends had to postpone our trip to Birmingham due to a last minute emergency. We diverted to Georgia and a “happy accident” ensued.
Savannah didn’t disappoint. We had been here once before and really enjoyed it, but I don’t think I fully grasped how wonderful this city truly is. We walked the streets of Savannah completely captivated by her glamour. As we were walking, I couldn’t help but feel that we were back in Paris. It has that “Left Bank” quality that is bustling with art and music which invigorates my soul. The city possesses a certain witchy-ness that could very easily cause one to turn and cast a backwards glance, checking just to make sure nothing was sneaking up from behind; but even that slight discomfort only gives rise to the excitement that the city offers. Savannah is her own lady; full of vigor, dangerously seductive, and old enough to know all the tricks of the trade to entice someone.
Savannah is lined with parks that are perfect for an afternoon stroll and of course, Bonaventure Cemetery, which is the ideal place to set the mood for Halloween. Bonaventure Cemetary is the final resting place of military generals, poet Conrad Aiken, Academy Award-winning lyricist Johnny Mercer, Georgia’s first governor Edward Telfair and is rumored to be haunted by Gracie Watson, or, as she is affectionately known, Little Gracie.
6-year-old Gracie died of pneumonia and was memorialized in marble by artist John Walz from nothing but a photograph. For years, people have reported seeing a little girl that fits her description playing in Johnson Square where her father’s hotel once stood. The legend claims she appears as a normal, living girl in a white dress who vanishes without a trace when you get too close. To some, Little Gracie still lives while some visitors leave toys for her to play with, especially around Christmastime. She is said to cries tears of blood if her playthings are removed.
Many stories surround Bonaventure Cemetery including tales of people being buried alive. Before modern technology like heart monitors existed, there were times when people in comas with low-pulse-rates were mistakenly buried alive. Although this was a rare occurrence, there is proof that this did happen on occasion. As evidence, they have found scratch marks on the inside of caskets when bodies have been exhumed or ransacked by grave robbers.
To prevent this from happening, a string was attached to the deceased person’s finger which led to a bell located next to the grave; the assumed deceased person would ring the bell to be extricated from the grave thus the phrases “saved by the bell” and “dead ringer” were born. As an additional safety measure, families would often pay someone to stand watch over the grave to ensure that if the bell was rung the unfortunate victim would be saved; this became known as working the “graveyard shift”. As a final safety measure, families began holding a “wake” to ensure that their loved ones truly had passed and wouldn’t “wake” once buried.
As Adi and I strolled through the cemetery we couldn’t help but feel the eeriness that surrounded us; we also couldn’t help but be enthralled by this city. It was if we had rediscovered Paris once again (our first day was in Paris, France. Get the book here) and were being given the chance to relive our first date—only this time in America.
One of the things Adi most wanted to do was to visit The Gryphon for High Tea. The Gryphon Tea Room occupies the A. A. Solomon & Co. Drug Store that, until very recently, housed the Masonic Lodge. The history of the building is rich; remnants of the former pharmacy are still present and the building itself is dotted with books dating back several decades or even a century or older. This is a book lovers dream. A simple stroll through the Gryphon could easily turn into hours, such is the enchanting nature of the edifice.
From the outside of the building, if one were to look upwards towards the roof of the structure, they would see Lapis Lazuli adorning the top lining of the building. It is speculated that the stone along the top rim of the roof is more valuable than the building itself. This building feels as if you stepped back in time to get a peek at Old World Savannah. Southern charm awaits on the other side of the doors of entry.
The tea that Adi longed to try did not disappoint. We ordered what amounted to a London Fog that had touches of lavender and vanilla sprinkled in to provide the perfect taste to accompany the visual decadence of the interior of the building. The taste was so delightful that Adi and I committed to returning to Savannah and The Gryphon sooner rather than later. Our waiter was kind enough to give us the history of the building along with wonderful service that made us feel so welcome. When he delivered the check he did so in an old, hard cover book that dated back to 1940. It was the perfect touch to end a perfect day.
Our time in Savannah was much too short; the history of the city too long to convey in a short blog post. Adi and I will go back. Savannah will become a part of our life; the only question is how soon and will she become our home.
More to come…
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